Comments on: I wasn’t insane after all! (Bosch tankless story ends well)

By: Jonathan

Jonathan — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:23:28 +0000

Could you send me the letter you sent them to pphfl04@gmail.com?

I’m having the same issues!

By: julio

julio — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 18:10:56 +0000

Steve,

Here is the link where I found the manual:
http://www.tanklesswaterheatersdirect.com/shop/tanklesswaterheaters/manuals/250sxman_manual.pdf

It looks like they may no longer have the 250 manual, as it was apparently replaced with a new model. I believe I have a downloaded copy at home somewhere, so I will try to find it and upload it to our site.

By: steve

steve — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 02:59:29 +0000

Thanks for the detailed info here and glad to know others have the whistling/ringing issue and have had some success resolving it. It wasn’t clear to me where one would find the details of making the gas valve adjustments on their own. I’d like to try that first before waiting on hold w/ Bosch to ask for a replacement. Can you tell me where to find that info? Thanks.

By: Steve in CA

Steve in CA — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 01:18:16 +0000

I have nothing but disdain for the Bosch 250 I bought with the illusion that it would be just as reliable, just like the tank water heater, only smaller and save gas and water. I have had nothing but problems and have grown to expect one of 2 things when I get into the shower: Cold water and an EC error OR hot water and then cold water, accompanied by the EC error or not, just random periods, brief or long, of cold water. This is every shower. This is probably the most expensive piece of junk I’ve ever bought.

By: Mark Dingus

Mark Dingus — Sun, 08 Mar 2009 08:32:56 +0000

I purchased a Reconditioned Bosch 2400E NG from CPO this winter. At startup it kept getting an EC error. A local plumber got into the Combustion Valve and found it contained rust. Bosch sent him a new valve to install right away. No more EC codes.
I have still to deal with a loud whistle when the burner first ignites. It only lasts a couple of seconds.

By: Matt in Irving

Matt in Irving — Wed, 31 Dec 2008 04:50:26 +0000

I posted a comment on Mar 22, 2007. Bosch has sent me a new unit with the vent pipe attachment that I needed. They back their product 100% even after 27 months of use.

By: genevieve barbieri

genevieve barbieri — Sat, 29 Nov 2008 16:56:04 +0000

Tired of Bosch, and cold showers. The Bosch 425HN may be fine when it works, but “forget it”. 3 years of going from “hot to freezing cold”, has got me weary. Nothing helps the problem. Bosch couldn’t care less. Its always my; fault in their eyes. I’m disgusted, and would never own another Bosch product.

By: Tankless Hot-H2o Systems

Tankless Hot-H2o Systems — Sat, 01 Nov 2008 21:52:21 +0000

Hi Dale here owner “Tankless Hot-H2o Systems” Just browsing !!! Id just like to comment on Bosch & say there not My favorite equipment,I have replaced about 40 or so in the last 5 years. Rinnai & Noritz are My top sellers & I dont get call backs. Anyone looking for a Pro install in the Chicago metro area? Just give us a call 847-546-8841

By: gordo in balto

gordo in balto — Tue, 07 Oct 2008 06:51:55 +0000

I have to say these machines are for a person with quite a bit of mechanical ability. My background is a electrician. I talked my father into a upgrade since the old hot water tank heater was leaking. He looked at the tankless at the home depot and liked the idea. Well I found a new one on Ebay, from a local seller which was lucky because I met him for the pick up of it. The bosch 250sx was new and still in the box. I proceeded to install this. I did my homework, checked out the bosch install site, plus others. The copper lines had to be rerouted to the wall. the gas line was 1,1/4″ Trunk line to a furnace and the old water heater used a 1/2″ line. At first I had no problems with the copper lines I used 3/4″ and added 2 shutoff svalves, and one nock suppressor on the incoming cold. Also I added two hose valves for draining the system in maintenance or repair needs then put the last upturn of copper lines as a removable unions for removal and access to the small screens in the base of the water connections. These need to accessed every so often. So I made it user friendly for the future maintenance. I also did this with the gas line which was hard piped in 3/4″ iron. I used a fresh air pipe which was galvanized, and is a 3′ to 4′ system horizontal about 3′ total in length. I used 3″z flex stainless steel in a horiz through a block wall which is 7′ or so in length. It has 3 90s and a extra horiz condensate drain. The extra condensate drain is now speced on service bulletins. Ok at first I used the 1/2″ gas line with a flex pipe, and exhausted into the 3″ old chimney vent so I could use it the same night and it worked. No noises near perfect without the proper exhaust and gas line size. But then we would get the error code EC frequently, usually only for my dad in the shower. LOL So that’s when I changed the gas line to 3/4″ rigid pipe. It turns out that there is a 3/4″ certified flex gas line sold at cinnabar. I found that out after I did the hard pipe. Still got the EC error code often and usually for my dad. Now the house is equipped with single valve faucets which are not the best choice for these systems. We called moen and the sent us six new cartridges to change free of charge. Great, they are aware of this problem. But we still got the EC error code. and Yes usually when dad was in the shower. Now running the sink would help and mom and dad did this to help. I even put a brand new faucet in the sink and the shower for them trying to remedy this EC code.I also did finish the exhaust with the z flex. Still the dreaded EC code. Well I had spoke to bosch a couple of times by now, and tried some of the advice along the way. Eventually I spoke to one tech that just was a cut above the rest. He had me check the software #. You turn the machine off then on and read the first #s that appear mine said af 30 03. Well he said that was a defective computer board. It will work but is touchy with the single valves and who knows what else. He actually sent a new computer free. I put it in and she fired right up. We will be watching over the next month or so to see if this is the cure. Also the bosch tech said that bosch will not honor the warranties of purchases made through ebay/amazon/any none dealers. So to save a buck might backfire later. They honored my fathers purchase but didn’t have to. Dad even had the paperwork and orig warranty card which he had mailed in. All I can say is that it was a really nice technician on the phone that day. Now we are trying to get the remote to work. I installed the pcboard inside. But when I try to activate the remote addressing process it doesn’t work. You turn off the power then turn it back on holding the minus button, and it is supposed to bring up a rotating # for the remote s address. But no rotating # ever appears. It just acts like it has no pcboard in it and moves the temp down. HELP! Has any one encountered this problem? I will be calling bosch soon and I will follow up. Overall I like the thing and it does work, but its only good if you can tackle the project on your own. I would have to say there is a lot of extra work almost a extra 2k$. If dad would of had others installing this. So be sure you want one. This was all for my dad and mom. At my own house I just put in a standard water heater LOL. Maybe electric models may be less trouble some?

By: julio

julio — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 19:52:53 +0000

Eddie,
It sounds like yours really has some issues. There is no excuse for these heaters to cycle during a shower, since even a low-flow showerhead should easily exceed the minimum flow rate.
I think turning the temp down may help you, though, because it will force a higher flow rate through the heater. Ours is set at 112, and that works out well. I think Stephanie runs the shower with only the hot water, while I’ll set about an 80/20 split between hot and cold. Either way, we don’t have problems with it cycling since the heater was replaced.
Based on my experience I think your line is probably sufficient. If I had a lot of extra time on my hands, I would try downgrading our line back to 1″ or even down to 3/4″ just to prove whether or not a “good” heater could work with those underdimensioned lines. But of course there’s no way I would even touch our system, since all is good now. I’m sure Bosch’s recommendations are valid for running at max capacity, but I can’t believe that you need 1 1/4″ line just to keep it from making noise!